LOUIS VUITTON TIME CAPSULE EXHIBITION MADRID

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Louis Vuitton, nos invito durante poco más de un mes a compartir con ellos un viaje en el tiempo, en el cual nos llevaban a conocer la historia de una de las casas más longevas en el mundo de la moda, 164 años para ser exactos, mostrándonos a través de una exposición, porque ha logrado convertirse en una de las marcas más importantes no solo en cuando a moda se refiere sino también en el apartado de los viajes, y es que realmente así fue como comenzó su fundador Louis Vuitton en este mundo creando baúles para la aristocracia.

Este evento era un paseo en el tiempo que iba del pasado al presente y también nos dejaba entrever un poco el futuro de la marca, todo esto a través de la exposición titulada Time Capsule Exhibition, en el museo Thyssen-Bornemisza del 17 de abril al 15 de mayo, misma que ha estado presente anteriormente en ciudades como Shanghái, Berlín, Dubái o Melbourne, un muy completo repaso por la historia de la casa francesa de la manos de sus mejores embajadores, es decir, de sus propios vendedores. En ella pudimos descubrir como su fundador creaba piezas que se adelantaban a su época, en donde la calidad, la innovación y el diseño son y han sido su sello de identidad y por supuesto en donde el trabajo artesanal es la pieza fundamental en la cual basan su identidad.

Muestra de la evolución de la marca y como sus rasgos características se reinventan

Louis Vuitton así como sus siguientes generaciones George o Gaston-Louis eran unos visionarios quienes iban por delante de las necesidades de sus clientes, creando piezas que se adelantaban a su tiempo, por ejemplo su fundador, fue el creador de la maleta con ruedas, así como el primer artesano que decidió crear una fragancia para las maletas y posteriormente desarrollar una lona impermeable a base de algodón y resinas, para de esta forma suplir a la piel y conseguir un equipaje más duradero en el tiempo, también fue el creador de los baúles verticales, los cuales podían albergar más capacidad y gracias a sus compartimentos, de acuerdo a las necesidades de los clientes, evitar que sus pertenencias se dañasen, otra de sus aportaciones fue la de crear baúles con tapas planas lo cual permitía que los mismos pudieran apilarse, así como también las esquinas de las maletas o bien su candado infranqueable.

Baúl Flower en lona Monogram creado para enviar flores

La visita se podía hacer de dos formas; por libre o a través de una visita guiada, la segunda opción era la más recomendable, porque a través de esta, gracias a los guías, se podía enterar uno de todos los detalles que envuelven a la marca y sus míticas maletas, mismas que a través de esta pequeña colección pudimos ver y comprobar que son una inversión segura a largo plazo, y es que ya sea en cualquiera de sus materiales, lona o en piel, mantendrán a buen recaudo nuestros más preciados bienes, incluso por generaciones.

Time Capsule Exhibition, se dividió en 6 salas y nada más entrar en ellas te impregnabas en el lujoso universo de esta centenaria maison, lo más importante es que lo hacías de una forma dinámica, lo cual es un punto muy positivo para este tipo de exposiciones.

 

Sala 1

SALA DE LOS ARTESANOS

Artesanos trabajando en la confección de un bolso Speedy

Una de las características más importantes para Louis Vuitton ha sido siempre el trabajo artesanal y muestra de ello era esta sala, en ella nos mostraba como los artesanos que provienen del taller de Asnières en Francia, trabajan concienzudamente en la fabricación de un bolso, en este caso en un Petite Malle, este bolso es una reproducción a pequeña escala de los baúles, mismos con los que comienza la historia de esta emblemática Maison Francesa, podíamos ver el corte de las piezas, el encerado, la forma de coser, el armado e incluso la personalización de las piezas ya fuera con las iníciales del portador o bien con un dibujo completamente a gusto del propietario.

Ejemplos de la personalización de algunas de las piezas de Louis Vuitton

También en esta sala teníamos acceso a los diferentes tipos de pieles que maneja le marca, como por ejemplo la piel Taïga, Epi, Nomade o Taurillon; así como de sus lonas, cuatro en total, la primera la Lona Trianon, la siguiente fue la lona beige con rojo, después vino la lona Damier y por último la lona Monogram. De las cuatro lonas solo las dos últimas están registradas, todo esto para evitar las copias o falsificación, las dos primeras por los años que corrían desafortunadamente no fueron patentadas y de ahí que surgieran muchas empresas que se aprovecharon y copiaron el modelo de la marca.

Diferentes pieles y lonas que trabaja la marca

Sala 2

SALA LOS CÓDIGOS DE LA MAISON

Louis Vuitton comenzó su andadura embalando el equipaje de la nobleza francesa, lo cual poco a poco le fue dando un nombre en el gremio y ganándose el prestigio y recomendación de más y más nombres importantes, entre ellos María Eugenia de Montijo, la mujer de Napoleón, quien era una de las mujeres que se decantaba por los servicios de esta marca.

El fundador Louis Vuitton La primera tienda en España, en Madrid

En esta sala, en el pasillo se mostraba a través de los años, la historia de la casa, con algunas fotografías en blanco y negro, momentos destacados en la historia de la casa, como por ejemplo que fue la primera casa en poner ruedas a sus baúles, para de esta forma facilitar su traslado, todo esto aproximadamente en el año de 1860.

También la creación de su mítico candado, es una de las piezas características de la marca, el mismo es imposible de abrir a la fuerza, también sus esquinas metálicas, así como sus interiores acolchados con forma de rombos, y por supuesto sus lonas canvas impermeables y con una duración extraordinaria.

Baúl Car Trunk de 1923 con sus preciados candados

La Cabin Trunk, la maleta de viaje, también fue una de las anticipaciones en el tiempo que tiene la casa, puesto que fue una de las primeras maletas ligeras de la época (1916), además de que su tamaño hacía que la misma fuera fácil de transportarse e incorporarse a espacios pequeños. Actualmente Marc Newson ha colaborado para hacer todavía más ligera y espaciosa esta icónica maleta.

Sala 3

VIAJES ALREDEDOR DEL MUNDO

Louis Vuitton siempre ha estado pendiente de las necesidades de sus clientes así como del mercado y ha sabido adaptarse a todas y cada una de ellas, en este caso el tópico de los viajes juega un papel muy importante para la empresa, ya que es con las necesidades de los viajeros como nació esta institución, esto claro, siempre teniendo como principales puntos el ingenio, la elegancia y la practicidad a la hora de diseñar sus piezas, ya sean para ser llevadas por tierra, por mar o por aíre, ofreciendo siempre alternativas llamativas y cosmopolita. En los años 30 se creó el bolso KEEPALL, el primer bolso de viaje moldeable, perfecto para viajes cortos.

Bolso Keepall revistado en 2017

SOLUCIONES PARA BARCO

Por ejemplo el baúl armario permitía a los usuarios transportar su vestidor de una forma eficaz.; el bolso STEAMER, fue el primer bolso creado para guardar la colada, poder colgarse en la puerta y después de usarlo plegarse para poder guardarlo dentro del baúl, tres soluciones que hacían más sencillos los viajes largos en barco.

El bolso CITY STEAMER fue creado por Nicolas Ghesquière para rendir un homenaje a los barcos de vapor y en general a los viajes en este tipo de transporte.

Caja para puros creada en madera y lona Monogram

SOLUCIONES PARA COCHE

Con la aparición de los vehículos de 4 ruedas, Louis Vuitton crea en 1897 el primer baúl con las medidas perfectas para encajar en el maletero de los coches de esa época. Más adelante y para hacer todavía más sencillo el problema del equipaje en los viajes en coche, crea el baúl EXCELSKI, el cual tiene dos compartimentos con maletas para facilitar el acceso a las pertenencias de los usuarios.

Maleta Weekender 2015 creada por Kim Jones en homenaje a Christopher Nemeth

También la sombrerera ha sido modificada a los tiempos actuales para hacerla más práctica.

SOLUCIONES PARA AVIÓN

Los viajes en globo eran muy común para la gente pudiente en el año 1900, con lo cual la maison creó el AEROTRUNK, un baúl hermético e impermeable que solo pesaba 18 kilos y albergaba una gran cantidad de ropa y accesorios, lo cual fue una revolución para esos tiempos.

Muchas de las piezas contenidas en esta sala mostraban la practicidad o el diseño que caracteriza a la marca, como por ejemplo el BAUL ESCRITORIO, la CAMA BAÚL, o un baúl para transportar caviar, toda una oda al diseño y al lujo.

Baúl cama antiguo (1885) y una versión reciente (2016)

Sala 4

ELEGANCIA EN MOVIMIENTO

La primera fragancia que creo Louis Vuitton data del año 1927 tomaba el nombre de HEURES D’ABSENCE y no fue creada precisamente para las personas, sino para sus maletas, y es que con el calor, la humedad y el tiempo, el olor a cuero suele tomar un aroma fuerte, así que esta fue la solución que crearon para aliviar el olor de las maletas.

Caja pedido especial creada en madera para aseo personal

Hace dos años la firma presentó “LES PERFUMS” una colección de 7 fragancias dedicadas al público femenino, en un futuro también presentarán fragancias para caballero, tiempo al tiempo…

En esta sala se podían admirar objetos diseñados por y para eventos y personalidades especiales, como por ejemplo:

EL OJO DE LA CONCIENCIA, un abanico, creado en colaboración con la actriz española Rossy de Palma en el 2008, el cual fue creado para ser subastado para recaudar fondos solidarios, posteriormente se creó una versión para venderse en las boutiques de la casa francesa.

También en 1998 creó para la FIFA una PELOTA EN LONA MONOGRAM con su respectivo soporte en piel.

Balón y red para transportarlo creado para la FIFA World Cup 1998

Otra de las celebridades que tampoco ha podido resistirse a los encantos de la marca es el chef Ferran Adrià, quien en conjunto con los artesanos diseño una maleta para transportar sus utensilios de cocina, fue tanto el ruido que hizo este hecho que se fabricó una segunda pieza la cual fue subastada nuevamente para fines benéficos.

También podíamos ver curiosidades como un baúl para almacenar cervezas, mismo que fue prestado por la marca cervecera para este evento o por ejemplo un baúl pequeño diseñado expresamente para enviar flores a las clientas más importantes de la maison, una pipa fabricada en piel o una caja para guardar puros.

Baúl en lona Monogram propiedad del Grupo Mahou San Miguel 2015

Sala 5

ICONOS DE LA MAISON

En esta sala se presentan los diseños más importantes de la firma, tanto en sus versiones originales como en revisiones realizadas en años más recientes, así como colaboraciones y diseñadores que han elevado aún más el estatus que Louis Vuitton ya poseía.

BOLSO SPEEDY

Nace en los años 20 para todos aquellos trotamundos que les gusta moverse por el mundo, más adelante se presento en 1953 en su versión MONOGRAM, se le llama icono porque ha sido utilizado por las mujeres más poderosas del mundo, entre ellas Audrey Hepburn; el mismo se ha reinterpretado en numerosas ocasiones con diseños de los más variados.

Bolso Speedy en lona Monogram 2014

NOE

Este bolso fue creado en 1953 como un encargo especial para poder albergar botellas de champagne, la petición más importante por el cliente, era que el mismo fuera igual de ligero que las burbujas del champagne que iba a transportar, al final la creación del mismo alberga 4 botellas de pie y una invertida, siendo uno de los más vendidos en la historia de la maison.

Bolso Noé de 1980 y Bolso Petit Noé del 2018

BUCKET

Se creó en 1968 como evolución del bolso Noé para satisfacer las necesidades de la mujer cosmopolita y trabajadora.

PAPILLON

En 1966, Henry, nieto de Louis Vuitton, creo este mítico bolso, inspirándose en un paseo por los Campos Elíseos, mientras admiraba unas mariposas, de ahí su nombre, ya que sus asas dan la apariencia de una mariposa a punto de elevar al vuelo.

ALMA

Este bolso nació en los años 30 con el nombre de SQUIRE el cual posteriormente se cambio a Alma, debido a que estaba inspirado en la Place de l’Alma de Paris, el mismo es uno de los bolsos más reinterpretados de la casa.

Bolso Alma en piel Malletage 2017

Dentro de la historia de la maison la misma ha estado involucrada de una forma muy apegada con el mundo del arte y con artistas contemporáneos, lo cual se ha visto reflejado en algunas de sus colecciones;

SUPREME

En 2017 Louis Vuitton en colaboración con la marca de skateboard Supreme, después de varias demandas decidió crear una de las colecciones más lucrativas en la historia de la casa.

Artículos de la colección Luis Vuitton X Supreme

JEFF KOONS

La última colaboración hace referencia a este artista, quien decidió plasmar en algunos de los bolsos más míticos pinturas de maestros como Leonardo da Vinci, Monet, Van Gogh o Rubens.

STEPHEN SPROUSE

En 2001 fue la primera vez que colaboro Louis Vuitton con este artista de Nueva York, posteriormente en el año 2009 tras 5 años de su muerte Marc Jacobs, director creativo en ese momento, creó como homenaje la línea MONOGRAM GRAFITTI.

TAKASHI MURAKAMI

En 2003 este artista del dibujo decide entrar en los talleres de la maison para crear sobre un fondo blanco y negro toda una explosión de colores en su logotipo MONOGRAM, todo un éxito de ventas a nivel mundial.

YAYOI KUSAMA

En el año 2012 la artista japonesa decide poner sus míticos lunares en los bolsos más emblemáticos de la casa llamando a este estampado MONOGRAM WAVES.

Bolso Speedy en lona Monogram Waves, creada por Yayoi Kusama

SYBILLA

La diseñadora neoyorquina Sybilla, en el año 1996 en conmemoración con el 100 aniversario de la maison francesa diseña el bolso SHOPPING IN THE RAIN, una mochila con un paraguas integrado en ella.

CELEBRATING MONOGRAM

En el año 2014 Louis Vuitton reúne a 6 artistas del diseño para que creasen a partir de sus propias ideas un bolso en donde integrasen la LONA MONOGRAM, los artistas fueron Frank Gehry, Karl Lagerfeld, Marc Newson, Christian Louboutin, Cindy Sherman y Rei Kawakubo y el resultado fue la colección cápsula ICONOCLAST, la cual presentó piezas de lo más original y diferentes entre sí.

 

Bolsos reinterpretados por diferentes artistas como J. Koons

Sala 6

SALA BAUL MÁGICO

Una sala espectacular por su sencillez y por todo lo que había detrás de ella, la misma era una sala con pantallas en todas sus paredes y en el centro un cubo también con pantallas que representaba un baúl, en todas ellas nos mostraban de una manera rápida y concisa los momentos más representativos en la historia de la casa, desde el año de creación de la misma, hasta su última colaboración con Supreme, pasando por su primer pret-a-porté, desfiles, logotipo y fotografías, todo un conjunto de imágenes impactantes que nos despedían de la mejor forma posible de esta exposición.

Muestra de uno de los baúles en las pantallas de la sala Magic Malle

Ya a la salida como recuerdo para todos los visitantes colocaron unas maquinas expendedoras donde mediante el registro de tus datos te obsequiaba un par de postales creadas para la ocasión, en total 8 modelos diferentes, 4 de los cuales fueron creados en exclusiva para su paso por Madrid.

Otro dato curioso es el origen de los anagramas incluidos en la LONA MONOGRAM, que creo George Vuitton en 1896 como parte de hacer único, original e institucional su marca y que no pudiera imitarse y de ahí que haya sido el primer logotipo en la historia en registrarse; según nos contaban hay tres teorías acerca de este origen, ninguna de ellas confirmadas, la primera es que las flores están basadas en los grabados de las flores orientales de finales de la época victoriana tomadas de los viajes que hacía George a Asia, la segunda es que están inspiradas en los rosetones de la Catedral de Notre Dame y la última es que se inspiró en los azulejos que

tenía su abuela en una casa de Francia, así que esta incógnita por resolver sobre las dos flores de cuatro pétalos y las iníciales entrelazadas se queda en el aíre, sin conocer realmente su verdadero origen.

Baúl para zapatos propiedad de Gaston-Louis Vuitton

Imágenes, objetos, fotografías, explicaciones y una retrospectiva impresionante, es así como Madrid cerró una de las exposiciones más importantes del año, en donde a través de una sucesión de momentos en la historia de la marca, pudimos conocer de primera mano, como mediante la creación de piezas hechas artesanalmente y cubriendo las necesidades de sus clientes se ha ido reinventando a través de los años, otorgándole así la categoría de la firma más importante en el mundo de la moda, todo esto gracias a su continua búsqueda por la satisfacción de sus clientes actuales y su preocupación por las nuevas generaciones, empresa que no para y no deja de sorprendernos fabricando artículos para toda la vida; calidad, innovación y elegancia en movimiento, que lo mismo es factible para viajar en barco, tren, coche, avión e incluso para ir a pie, tanto por sus piezas de moda, como maletas, baúles, bolsos y accesorios esto es Louis Vuitton y Time Capsule Exhibition fue solo una pequeña muestra de ello.

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